ChristopherLeeMiller

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BMR-1 Early Mod With KMT-5M

Started: 06/11/2021Updated: 01/07/2022
BrandMiniart
Scale1/35
Kit Number37034
Year Released2018
ScalematesLink
CompletedDec 25, 2021
Build Time

Lower Hull

To start off the construction of this very complex starts at the base of the tank, in the lower hull. Unlike a lot of other brands, there is no bathtub hull here, instead, it's constructed from the bottom, sides, and backplate. With some careful cleanup and quick gluing to be able to get the shape correct and joins to line up I was able to set it aside for a few hours to dry solid. While that was drying I began to assemble the 8 sets of torsion bar suspension bits. Each is workable however one has the option of building them fixed in place, I of course opted to make them work even though it required more work overall at the end.

Once all 8 were built up along with the travel limiters for each I turned back to the hull, where I was then able to add the parts where the axles actually attach to secure them. After that, I added all the torsion bars. Covers then get added to each axel to protect the torsion bar from damage. Bump stops and the final drive covers were then fit. The kit supplies a grab rail for the back of the hull, but I broke it into about 5 pieces so I opted to use copper wire of about the same thickness instead and fit it into place.

Lower Front HullLower Rear HullUnderside Detail

Wheels

Construction of the wheels was rather straightforward and thankfully mini art injected each wheel as one piece, which made building each assembly up rather easy. Building the wheels was split between two steps, however, the final result was the same for them all, I think the only difference was which sprues the parts were located on. The 2 wheel halves were glued together, then a cap was added on the backside, before fitting in a pin from the front that didn't get glued down and a final front cap as well.

Upper Hull

Construction of the upper hull follows a similar process to the lower hall, with individual plates for each of the sides. Each of them gets a bunch of holes drilled into them for accessories later as well as scraping off some details that aren't relevant for this particular tank. The fender plates followed a similar process with holes being drilled into a bunch of locations. Rather than follow the instructions precisely here I instead went my own route to help with squaring up the hull in general and provide support where needed. I glued the two fenders into place first, then glued up each panel to the top of the hull, before finally gluing that down onto the lower hull. This gave the fenders time to set up but not hard so that the upper hull could be manipulated as need be to form nice tight joints. The result came out well.

After everything had sufficient time for the glue to dry I then turned to the backplate of the turret, which gets left off earlier. I built up the details including doors and vents and attached them to it before finally fitting the plate to the back of the turret, making the entire thing even more solid overall.

Upper HullUpper Hull Front

Hull Details

After the upper hull was completed attention was turned back to detail bits all over the hull. Stiffing brackets were fitted at this point, as well as many spare track holders dotted across the sides and front of the hull, basically giving this tank as much defensive armor as possible since it lacks any real countermeasures to attack. We then fit on air scrubbers (or I think that's what they are, and the front fenders, adding PE pieces to those for the brackets that hold them into place.

once that was complete many many grab irons were added, as well as protective bumpers around lights, and adding the light housings themselves. A bedroll was included, although I held off on attaching this till after the model was painted as it was a different color completely, PE straps were added to it though.

A few storage boxes were then built and fit the fenders of the tank as well. The rather simplistic turret was built and just perches atop the upper hull, with a machine gun protruding and not much else, again defensive vehicle.

To round out the hull of the tank I built up a pair of tow straps and looped them around the tank attaching to the sides and front, and then painted up a log and attached it to the rear of the tank.

Front Hull DetailRear Hull DetailEngine DeckEngine Deck #2

Mine Roller

The mine roller is the main part of this build and has the rest of the build's focus now. To start out we build the various wheel assemblies that form up the rollers themselves, although the fit here was really bad, either the instructions weren't very clear or the parts just didn't mesh as they claim, but there were huge gaps that I just simply had to glue and hope it held up.

After that, we started building the arms that attach the rollers themselves, with brackets where some of the included chains get mounted before adding plates to the sides of the rollers and making it one solid unit.

Construction then proceeds with the arms that hold up the rollers and attach them to the tank proceeds. first, by building up the arms, a process made harder by the various angles and lack of solid attachment points to get all the various pieces to fit to where the chains mount and support for the arms to the tanks. Those then get stiffened up by plates to help box in areas and again add attachment points.

Once that was done I built up 4 brackets in a multi-step process that actually attach to the lower part of the hull to anchor the entire thing. With a very clever latch solution the arms get offered up to those brackets and held in place, a bit better engineering and they might have actually functioned, which was a darn shame.

With the arms mounted to the tank chassis, we use the rest of the chain supplied with the kit to then attach the rollers to the arms and to each other to provide a complete assembly. A few plastic supports are also added to provide rigidity to the upper hull to keep this from all flopping around when moving on uneven terrain.

Paint

Painting the model was a very quick and easy process this time around. I started by priming the entire model with Mr. Surfacing finisher 1500 in black to give this thing all the shadows it'd need if I missed anything painting it later. I then used Mr. Color #136 Russian green to paint the entire model, varying the tones to give highlights and shadows as much as possible as this is a very flat and angular model. After the paint had sufficient time to dry I went back and painted the various bits that needed to be painted otherwise, things like ropes in metal colors, the bedroll mentioned earlier, etc.

To paint the tracks from Sector35 I airbrushed them first black as a primer, and then followed that up with a rust color, before taking and lightly sanding them to expose the metal beneath where the track treads would contact hard surfaces on the road and thus be shiny.

PrimedPainted Model

Decals and finishing touches

With the construction done and painting finished I was able to put the very few decals onto the model and add the other final touches like the spare tracks and their holders before calling this model done.

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